All Billy Joel fans have heard of the song "Goodnight Saigon", one of the most well-known songs about the Vietnam War. The song, penned and sung by Joel, takes us through the situation and attitude of United States Marines during this war and the utter hopelessness of it all.
Today, however, Saigon or Ho Chi Minh (HCM) City is a different story altogether.
Ho Chi Minh City, the largest city of Vietnam, is located in the South of the country and is the heart of Vietnam. Throbbing with great energy, it carries everyone with it. The streets are not unlike Kolkata with teeming traffic, crowds, shops and vendors. Traffic jams there reminded me of what we face everyday back home. Two-wheelers seem to rule the roost here. It was interesting to see pylons on the main streets with wires dangling from them. Many shopping malls, restaurants and pubs line the streets. The French influence, since the 19th century, can be seen quite clearly in the city’s wide boulevards, architecture and the Catholic population.
The fall of communism and the end of the Cold war in the early 1990s, brought about a period of rapid political and economic change with large scale construction and opening of private enterprises.
Knowing the local language helps though, as we tried to find our way from the Ben Thanh Market to our hotel, just next door. Thankfully, our hotel manager had thoughtfully provided us with a road map which got us back to our destination which was a medium budget motel with clean rooms, free internet facility along with the provision for a hearty breakfast.
As expected, most of the places of visit at HCM City have a bearing to its war marred history. Some city spots are definitely worth a visit.
The Reunification Palace
Once the Presidential Palace of the Republic of South Vietnam, the Reunification Palace is a five-story grand building with about hundred rooms and a basement complete with tunnels, a telecommunication room and war room with old Vietnam maps. The grandeur of the
state rooms is evident in the decor of the rooms. The tanks exhibited on the Palace grounds are the ones which gate crashed on the fateful day of April 30, 1975, marking an end to the Vietnam War.
War Remnants museum
The War Remnants museum tells the cruel tale of what a war is all about. The photo galleries, prison cell models and the weaponry hold out the story in graphic detail. Though the effect is
depressing, it is quite an eye opener.
Cu Chi Tunnels
Situated more than a two hour drive away from HCM city are the famous Cu Chi Tunnels. Used by the Viet Cong, these secret tunnels infiltrated US base camps at HCM City during the war. They covered a length of more than 200 metres in hard soil and comprised hospitals, sleeping areas, kitchens and war rooms. Think twice before you decide to go underground because the trip can be scary for claustrophobics, with the closing walls and ceiling, and the minimal light from the torch to guide you.
Notre Dame Cathedral
Built by the French in the late 19th century, the Notre Dame Cathedral is located at the city centre. Surrounded by the city square and lush greenery, this red brick neo Romanesque structure has two 40-feet bell towers and a huge statue of the Virgin Mary outside. In fact, the towers clearly dominate the city skyline which helped us locate this cathedral.
Hanoi is the capital of Vietnam and the second largest city situated on the North. It is also its cultural capital with more than 600 pagodas and temples and a large number of museums.
If you are in Hanoi, there are some must-see places for you.
Hanoi, also known as the city of Lakes, has one of the most spectacular lakes called the Hoan Kiem Lake or the Lake of the Returned Sword. Legend has it that Emperor La Loi was granted a magic sword by a giant tortoise living in the lake. After his victory, the king had to return this sword to the rightful owner. The Tortoise Tower at the centre of the lake is dedicated to that turtle.
The Water Puppet Show at the Thang Long Water Puppet Theatre
Ha Noi is known for its water puppetry which is a skill that is uniquely Vietnamese. The colourful wooden puppets are operated using poles underwater while the puppeteers conceal themselves behind a screen. Vietnamese folk tales and history are woven within the antics of the puppets with traditional music playing in the background. Though you might not understand a word of dialogue since it is in Vietnamese, the overall impression leaves the audience asking for more.
Ha Long Bay
UNESCO has listed Ha Long as a World Heritage sight and you will know why when you take a ride along the bay. It comprises more than a thousand monolithic limestone islands rising majestically from the ocean, covered with vegetation. The smaller islands have wonderful beaches. Several islands have huge caves with stalactites and stalagmites. You also see floating villages of fishermen whose livelihood depend on their catch.
The Perfume Pagoda
Located about 70 km away from Hanoi, perched on the Huong Son Mountain, is the Perfume Pagoda. If you have lived with the dream of Vietnam meaning sprawling green paddy fields where Vietnamese women in their hats are hard at work, a visit to the perfume pagoda is a must. The only way to reach this destination is by boat which takes a little less than an hour. The narrow stream is bordered by green paddy fields and needless to say, the beauty is breathtaking. It is an hour’s uphill trek to the Pagoda and is worth the visit.
If possible, visit this country anytime between January 19 and February 20. The seven day Spring Festival awaits you. The Lunar New year falls at this time and for the Vietnamese there is no bigger event than the seven-day Tet. This includes festivity with fireworks, drums, gongs on the one hand, and meditation on the other.
Vietnamese Cuisine
Those hooked on to TV cookery shows would recognize chef and author, Anthony Bourdain anywhere and would know of his adoration for Vietnamese food. In his book, A Cook’s Tour, five of the book’s 17 chapters are based on Vietnam. Bourdain’s introduction to the food culture begins at Ben Thanh market in Ho Chi Minh where "everything is brightly coloured, crunchy, exotic, unrecognizable and attractive." He sidles up to a food stall, orders a spring roll and watches "as the owner wraps freshly hacked cooked prawn, mint, basil, lotus root and sprouts in rice paper", which he promptly eats and then devours "a shrimp cake wrapped around a stick of sugarcane and grilled. It's a wonderland of food here.”
Bourdain’s account of the restaurant's famous traditional rice baked in clay pots is like jazz in motion –
“When you order a rice side, a waiter retrieves it from the kitchen, smashes the crockery with a mallet, the pieces falling to the floor, then hurls the sizzling-hot rice cake across the dining room, over the heads of customers, to another waiter, who catches the cake on a plate, flips it, sends it up in the air a few more times like a juggler, then cuts it into portions tableside, dressing it with fish sauce, peppers, sesame, and chives ... Every few minutes, searingly hot disks of rice go sailing by my ear.”
